Jocks 2-Dorks 1

AIDS day was recognized around the world on Saturday December 1st. To commemorate, Shyira hospital organized an event down in Vunga, where market is held every Wednesday and Saturday. Vunga is about a 25-minute walk down Shyira hill, which involves zig-zagging through small hillside gardens and passing by houses as children run out to shake our hands. The market is situated next to a river, which can be seen from Shyira, and for a mere 50 cents be crossed in a long, slender, wooden boat made from a single tree trunk with 10 other passengers.
The men at the hospital had been talking amongst themselves all week how we would adequately prepare for our soccer match against the military. Some time ago, the military stationed around Shyira, the hospital, and even the church all created soccer teams. To attract people to the AIDS day events, a match was scheduled between the military and the hospital. I was asked to play for the hospital the prior Monday and promptly agreed with visions of me having exuberant post-goal celebrations as the crowed screamed my name and my fellow players threw me on their shoulders. The coaches of the team had practices on the Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday before the match. Our training consisted of us scrimmaging any and all military men who were off duty at the time at the nearby field that resembled more a cow pasture than a soccer pitch. The combination of a fragile knee due to a unhealed ski injury, an elevation of over 6, 000 feet, and an opposing team of well trained military men brought me to panting, overheated state within 30 minutes of practice. Due to the French lessons I am taking three times a week, I was unable to make 2 of the 3 practices.
The first half started on Saturday a good hour and a half later then expected, but by the time the whistle blew, there must have been at least 2, 000 people watching. Two town officials were walking around with loud speakers playing the roles of commentators, and of course I heard my name, “Umuzungu” or rich man in English, plenty of times. As the only non-Rwandan on the field, I had much more attention on me than I ever wanted. Every time I would slip and fall or miss a pass, the crowd would explode in laughter. I don’t take myself too seriously, but this entertainment at my expense was not helping my confidence or pride. Even though I was aware the spectators’ hysterics were not malicious, I couldn’t help my contempt of their sadistic sense of humor. I played right striker for the first half and after running back and forth from the centerline to the opposing goal for 45 minutes, I was beat. The military and got 2 goals against us but our offence was slowly picking up. At half time, the coaches decided that I wasn’t adapted to their kick and chase method of offence and put me in at midfield to get some passes in between the defense and the strikers in order to save our energy and give us a little more time with the possession. It worked out well and even though we got robbed of one goal due to an off sides, the hospital team managed to put one up on the board before the referee blew the whistle to end the game. At a respectable 2-1 loss to the Rwandan military, I was fairly pleased with the outcome.
The game left me exhausted and in need of some peace and quiet, but there was a discussion panel between a couple of the Shyira hospital doctors and some respected Vunga people about the impact of AIDS in their society. The hospital bought a goat and made a meal of skewers and barbequed bananas that helped bring a little life back to all those that had participated in the game. There was also free beer and soda, and because I represented the hospital, I stuck to soda. The beer was fully taken advantage of and eventually diminished the local people’s hesitation to ask difficult and uncomfortable questions. Unfortunately, the loss of sobriety also led to blaming one another for the AIDS endemic and attempting to create harsh penalties for those who transmit the disease. By the end of the session however, it seemed like everyone had learned something that would help decrease the spread of HIV/AIDS. As I headed up the hill, I was ready for a soft bed, a cold shower, and a book to read. After a couple pages of reading, I had one of the best nights sleep I’ve had since arriving.